Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
